When I first landed in Morocco, I had no idea what to expect. I had always been intrigued by Morocco – old walled Medina’s, desert vibes, camels, ocean, tagine, and insane tiled architecture. I’m happy to report that Morocco more than exceeded my expectations. Not only is it as gorgeous as you’d expect, but the people are so welcoming and eager to share their culture with tourists. I seriously met the nicest of humans right in the heart of Marrakesh.
A few things to note:
- Morocco uses a “closed currency” system. You can’t really obtain Dirham outside of the country. When you arrive at the airport, exit through customs (walk past the currency exchanges!) and there are many ATMs available. Get enough cash for your taxi, and off you go! You’ll get better ATM fees outside of the airport, so fuel up of Dirhams later. There are plenty of ATMs throughout the Medina and near hotels. You can even use Google Maps to locate ATMs, which is super handy.
- Lean on your Riads and hotels! I am not joking when I say that service in Morocco is top tier. If you need to arrange a car, need walking directions, want restaurant recommendations, etc. please ask the staff! They are truly delighted to help you.
- Morocco is a Muslim country. If you’re a female, it is polite and respectful to be thoughtful about your clothes. Yes, it can be really hot depending on the time of year. I would suggest a flowy linen skirt, tank top or tee, and a light scarf to cover shoulders as needed. That being said, Marrakesh is used to tourists and you likely won’t be hassled about your wardrobe. But you aren’t on your home turf, so it’s nice to play by their rules.
- You can find alcohol in Marrakesh. If you visit touristy restaurants, you can absolutely purchase cocktails, beer, and wine. The taxes on these items are extremely high, so the cost reflects your touristy vice. Honestly, I had some great cocktails in Morocco! You can also readily find non-alcoholic beers in a lot of locations.
- There are a ton of tiny winding alleys in the Medina. Walk down them! There are little restaurants and vendors tucked in every nook and cranny of the city. I felt very safe in Morocco as a solo female traveler. A firm “no merci” usually did the trick. Speaking of speaking…Moroccans are fluent in Arabic and French! You’ll hear plenty of English in the Medina as well, but if you know a little French vocab, that can really go a long way.
- Family is everything to Moroccans. They love kids.
Riad vs. Hotel
What’s a riad? I had never heard the word until researching this trip! A riad is a traditional Moroccan house built around a gorgeous central courtyard. Many of these now operate as boutique hotels. The tile work is nothing short of stunning throughout the city, and the riads are a lovely example of this architecture. Many of them also have rooftop pools, which is great, because it gets toasty during the day!
Since Moroccan women typically cover themselves when around strangers, most of the homes don’t have exterior windows into the Medina. Instead, they boast amazingly lush, private courtyards so that women can relax outdoors without being seen by those on the street. Additionally, most riads have fantastic rooftop spaces where you can enjoy the sunshine in a more private setting.
I stayed in the Riad Kaiss and had a fantastic stay. The riad arranged for a driver to pick me up from the airport and drop me right at the Medina “Bab” or gate. A riad employee met me right at the gate, took my backpack, and walked me straight to the door of the hotel. Phew! The Medina is a lot of sensory overload when you first experience it, so having someone guide you directly from a cab to your room is a huge plus.
Hospitality is a really important part of Moroccan culture. You’ll drink so much mint tea! The welcome to the riad is nothing short of grand. They whisk you to the courtyard and give you mint tea, dates, figs, and little cookies. You feel like royalty.
There are some wonderful (and very fancy) hotels in Marrakesh too. You would absolutely have a wonderful stay and experience top notch service, but a riad is such a unique part of Moroccan culture, I would highly recommend giving them priority.
Here are some recommended riads and hotels within the Medina:
- La Mamounia – Ulta luxury palace hotel
- Hotel Barriere La Naoura – Large suites for families, giant pool
- Les Jardins De La Koutoubia – Large suites for families, near the main square
- Riad Kniza – Luxury 18th-century riad
- Dar Assiya – 15th-century riad in the heart of the Medina
- Riad Touda – Riad with gorgeously decorated rooms
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The Main Sites
Jemaa el-Fnaa is the main square within the Medina. Honestly, it’s not that interesting during the heat of the day. It’s not very pretty or landscaped. But in the evenings, it’s the place to hang out.
During the day you’ll see some street performers with cobras or monkeys. I would suggest staying away. I don’t think these animals are treated very well, and these vendors will often try to pop a monkey on your shoulder and then ask that you pay them for the surprise privilege. It’s a hustle.
At night, however, the square is magical. Giant food areas are set up nightly, so come hungry too! There are juice vendors, henna artists, and a lot of street music. I could have listened to some of these musicians all night! I happened to be there during the World Cup game, and it was totally bananas in the best way. It’s great people watching too.
Ben Youssef Madrasa is a must-see for the architecture and Insta-worthy photos. This historic Islamic college was founded in the 14th-century and operated as a theological school. This spot will cost you 50 Dirhams to enter and is open daily. It now only functions as a museum and tourist attraction, but the grounds and building are spectacular. There are a lot of tours for this site available online, but I just went by myself to explore. There are also self-guided audio tours and plenty of signage in English to learn about what you’re seeing. I probably spent two hours exploring.
Bahia Palace is another major tourist landmark. Built by master artisans for the Sultan, this palace is, well, palatial. Even the ceilings are decorated with care. Unlike Ben Youssef, I would recommend an official tour here. If you’re interested in history and culture, this one has a lot to offer. Open daily from 9 to 5, it’s 100 Dirham ($27) to enter. Not everything in the palace is open to roaming, but you can spend an hour or two looking at all of the exquisite details.
When in Morocco, you should really try the hammam experience. These “spas” offer traditional cleansing rituals, massages, facials, and beautiful grounds on which to relax. I opted to visit Les Baines and was there for nearly four hours! You can arrive early to get situated at your locker, enjoy the indoor and outdoor pools, and lounge in the sunny courtyard. The actual hammam experience isn’t for everyone, though. Basically, you fully undress and lay on a warmed marble slab while a staff member gives you a very intimate bath. My gal got in all the places. You are bathed, scrubbed with a special black soap, bucketed off with water, your hair is shampooed…the whole shebang. I have to say that my skin has never been so soft as after that treatment! If you’re cool with a stranger giving you a very personal scrub-down, I say you have to experience it when in Morocco. However, if the idea of hanging out in nothing but your birthday suit for an hour makes you uncomfortable…perhaps opt for a facial instead. After all the rubbing and scrubbing, you’re guided to a relaxation room to enjoy mint tea and cookies in your plush robe and slippers.
There are many hammams in Marrakesh. Some are more geared toward tourists and others are small local establishments. The other tourist hammam that I often see suggested is Hammam de la Rose.
OK, now that we’re all cleaned up, let’s talk about the souks within the Medina. A souk is just another word for bizarre or shops. There are a zillion of them! I’m pleased to report that Google Maps worked really well in the winding maze of souks (if you have cell service, that is). Some of the souks are organized by type – jewelry, leather goods, beauty, rugs, lamps, etc. I really enjoyed just wandering aimlessly and seeing what I would find! It’s an adventure!
I have to admit that haggling makes me really uncomfortable. I read online that you should offer only 50% of whatever the vendors ask. Is that rude? Insulting? I don’t know. I tried to think of it as a game. Definitely don’t just give them full asking price. I found a beautiful onyx necklace that was originally over $600 USD and very easily talked him down to $200 USD after saying that my husband would kill me for spending $600 on a necklace! The vendor was a really sweet older man and you could tell he enjoyed the haggle and conversation. He also said that men should decorate their wives…and I agree.
Most of the souks were not aggressive in their selling tactics. Honestly, some of the vendors were full-on sleeping and others were messing around on their phones until you asked about a certain item. If a vendor engaged in conversation, my experience was that they were curious and eager to chit-chat in addition to selling you something. Most of the souks are not full of junky trinkets! We’re talking master artisans that have been working in jewelry or leather for generations. Talk to them! Go in with an open mind, think of it as a social-cultural experience, and enjoy the process. I wish I had brought a larger suitcase to bring home a clay tagine! Next time…
I’ll also mention that there are no cars in the Medina; however, there are a ton of scooter/motorcycles zipping about. Be aware of your surroundings, because the little alleys in the souks are tight and those motorcycles get close. If you’re traveling with little kids, just be aware so no one gets run over.
There is also a popular garden and museum in Marrakesh, but it’s not in the main Medina. Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum are a big tourist draw. The museum has over 5,000 haute couture garments from the French designer, if you’re into fashion. I did neither. If you’re in Marrakesh for an extended period, I’ve heard lovely things about both. After being in the busy Medina for a few days, you’ll probably appreciate a sprawling, tranquil garden!
Food
There are many ways to experience great food in Marrakesh! Most of restaurants are up several flights of stairs, so be prepared to earn your dinner. Rooftops are incredibly popular to get diners up off the chaotic streets. Most are well shaded, offer fantastic views, and some even have “misters” with cooling water to keep you comfortable. Moroccans eat late! A lot of dinner spots won’t really get going until 8pm and stay open well into the morning hours. Let’s start with my favorite restaurants in Marrakesh:
- Mabrouka Rooftop – Certainly the most touristy of the rooftops because it offers views of Jemaa el-Fnaa square. The menu is vast and offers both Western foods (think pizza, burgers, etc.) and classic Moroccan dishes like tagine. Because it’s tourist-focused, they also serve many alcoholic choices here too.
- DarDar Rooftop – Really lovely environment and sometimes the waiters get together and start singing! This is a wonderful spot to enjoy a sunset.
- Otto – Another fantastic rooftop and little quieter. Really great menu with many tagines. Lovely ambience. I had some fantastic octopus here.
- Cafe Des Espices – This is the perfect place for a mid-day meal or caffeine pick-me-up after shopping in the souks. Great place to take rooftop photos with the spice markets in the background.
One of my favorite evenings in Marrakesh was on a food tour with my guide Mustapha. If you’ve never tried Airbnb Experiences, you should! I signed up for this tour months in advance, and it turns out that I was the only guest that night, so I had Mustapha all to myself for 4 hours! He was the most wonderful guide! I loved that he was so passionate about Morocco’s food, but what I loved the most was that he was so open about his culture and family. I heard so many cute stories about him growing up in Marrakesh, funny anecdotes about his aunties, and it was just such a pleasure to get to chat with a local and listen to his perspective on life. Honestly, I cannot recommend Mustapha enough.
We went to SO many street food vendors! We also visited the local donut guy, a woman who’s been selling soup to her community for decades, and enjoyed some Berber meals. I couldn’t even finish the food at our last stop because I was SO full. I’m telling you, Moroccan hospitality is the best in the world.
Where to next…?
I absolutely loved my time in Marrakesh, but there is so much of Morocco to explore! I also went to Essaouira, which is a two hour drive toward the Atlantic. This walled city is famous for being a location in Game Thrones. It’s a beautiful beach town full of blue boats, fish markets, and many great art galleries. A lot people include desert trips, Fes, Casablanca, Agadir, Rabat or Chefchaouen. I’ve heard good things about all of them!
Want to see my recommended spots in Morocco? Check out my interactive Google Map!
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