The Unknown Ahead

I’m not sure that I could dream up a more beautiful and magical place than Lake Atitlan in Guatemala. First of all, the lake itself is absolutely stunning. Add to that a plethora of jungle volcanoes and the nicest Mayan locals, and you have yourself one amazing destination.

Although Lake Atitlan is a little tricky to access, it’s one that is worth the effort. You’ll likely fly into Guatemala City and then have a 4 hour drive to reach Atitlan. It’s best to hire a personal driver to get through these winding roads. If you need a driver, hit me up in the comments or email me (theunknownahead1@gmail.com). Even though the drive is long, the views and people-watching along the way make the trip feel quick. Feel free to break up the drive with a coffee stop – Guatemalan coffee is top notch.

In my opinion, there are four main towns in Lake Atitlan that you need to see: Panajachel (Pana), San Marcos, San Pedro, and San Juan. I’m going to give you a full breakdown of what to do/eat/see/experience in each location. Each little town has its own vibe!

A few quirks to note:

1. Cash is king. Assume that you will pay everything in cash and plan accordingly. There are several ATMs in each town, but the fees are pretty high. One Guatemalan Quetzal is about 13 cents USD, so with the exchange rates, most activities are pretty cheap. Some restaurants accept credit, but they will probably add the 3% credit fee back to you.
2. You will not want a rental car. Once you get to the lake, there are tuktuks for local stops. Negotiate a price upfront, get the drivers number on WhatApp, and then find your favorite guys for the duration of your trip. I’m a big fan of Jeremy – if you want his number, send me an email or comment below. If he can’t pick you up, one of his many “brothers” or “cousins” will be there in a few minutes.
3. To navigate from town to town, you’ll want to use a water taxi or “lanchas”. It’s usually about $2 to get from town to town on the water. The water taxis are really frequent and start running around 7AM. Just note that they stop running around 7PM – so don’t get stuck! Things are pretty quiet in Atitlan after 8PM since life happens early here. You’ll be up with the roosters and dogs around 5AM…so an early bedtime or ear plugs are key.
4. Spanish is not the main language here! There are over 10 distinct Mayan languages spoken throughout Atitlan. Spanish is often a local’s second language, so don’t expect a lot of English. Although hotels and restaurants will often have some English at the ready, it’s pretty rudimentary. If you don’t know Spanish, download a good translation app to help you along the way.

San Marcos La Laguna

San Marcos is near and dear to my heart. Not only did we rent an Arbnb here for a family vacation, but I also spent a week here solo at a yoga retreat. This town has an ex-pat hippie vibe. If you want to spend some time on a yoga mat, get your tarot read, or have some spiritual experiences, this is your town. San Marcos is one of the smaller spots on the lake, but it has a lot to experience!

These are some of my favorite places in San Marcos:

Eagle’s Nest – This is a total gem that is tucked away up in the mountains of San Marcos. You’ll take a TukTuk up from the main town and then walk about a quarter mile following the yellow arrows through little alleys and jungle paths. If you’re staying here, pack light! The view is divine. Eagle’s Nest offers all-inclusive stays if you’re looking for a unique hotel. They offer three meals per day, unlimited yoga classes, acrobatics, movie nights, fire ceremonies, and meditation. There is always something going on here! If you aren’t interested in the hotel or yoga, you can still visit for views and coffee. The restaurant is really good! They also offer the most amazing sauna and cold plunge in the evenings with views that will blow your mind. You have to climb up a ladder to the clay sauna where salt scrubs await. When you’ve sweat it all out, climb down and pop into the plunge pool with views of the volcano. Repeat. Plus there are kittens running around everywhere…

Magic Beans House – This is a “Spiritual Center” that offers a glimpse into Mayan culture through experiences like Fire Ceremonies. Carlos and his wife are amazing and immediately make you feel at home. They are so proud of their heritage and excited to share everything Mayan and Guatemalan. This would be a great experience with kids too. After my experience here, I went home and did a version of the fire ceremony with my own kids in our backyard. It’s all about connecting with what is important in your life, letting go of things that do not serve you, and setting intentions for the future. They don’t have a website, but you can reach out to Carlos on WhatsApp at +502 5633 9499

Mystic Myshelle – Have questions about your life? Feeling stuck? Want to answer some big questions? Meet Myshelle! I spent an hour with her doing a tarot reading, and it was hugely impactful. She won’t tell you what the future holds, but she is wonderful at asking you questions, guiding you through your card reading, and getting you to be honest about yourself. It felt like the most amazing hour of therapy at a fraction of the cost! I did a reading with Myshelle as an individual, but I think my whole family would have loved a session with her! You can get in touch with her on WhatsApp at +502 4476 4380

Reserva Natural Cerro Tzankujil – You’ve seen Lake Atitlan, but now it’s time to dip in your toes! This lovely reserve has a few hiking trails, access to the lake for swimming, and a 40-foot jumping platform! This was a highlight of our trip as a family. There isn’t a beach, just rocky formations, so bring towels to lounge on while enjoying the area. You should also bring drinks and snacks, as there are no vendors here. If you have a sunny day, I would suggest spending about 3 hours soaking in the sun. There is a small entrance fee, so bring some cash.

The Hippie Highway – There is a main pedestrian walkway from the lake through the town of San Marcos that has been dubbed The Hippie Highway. This is where you’ll find the majority of the restaurants and shopping in San Marcos. Bring the hand sanitizer, because there are also a million dogs hanging about too and you can’t resist petting them all!

Food – There are so many great spots to eat here! These are my favorite:

• Circles Cafe & Bakery – Open all day for pastries and coffee. They have a really cute and private courtyard setting with fun seating options.
• Arati Cafe – Great coffee, local vibes, lots of vegan options.
• La Sagrada Mezcaleria – Enjoy some Mezcal and Tequila in this fun taco spot. The drinks are really good and the patio offers great people-watching down the Hippie Highway.
• Restaurant Fe – Delicious food with an open concept and Bohemian vibe.
• Tul y Sol – Right on the lake with amazing views and plenty of seafood and chicken options. Great spot for a sunset drink too.
• Amo Atitlan – A little off the main touristy path, this restaurant is part of a hotel that has lakefront views and a beach for the kids. Great menu and great cocktails (they accept credit too).
• Moonfish Cafe – Enter the most amazing burritos of your life. No lake views, but this cafe offers an adorable private courtyard with really good food. If you have picky eaters in the family, this would be a good place for you.
• Comedor Casa Juanita – You’ll need a little extra effort to walk here, but it is well worth it! This was our favorite restaurant in San Marcos. This is Juanita’s House and she’s sharing her views and culinary delights with you. There’s only four tables here, but the menu is all authentic Guatemalan. Try the Pepian and wash it down with a Gallo beer.

San Juan

This town is a creative’s dream. Adorable pedestrian streets full of colorful art, weaving cooperatives, honey, art galleries…this town is my version of heaven. If you want some amazing photos, this is the place to be! The whole town is extremely walkable, so get on some comfy shoes, and let’s look around.

Here are my top spots in San Juan:

Mirador Kiaq’Aiswaan – Talk about a ridiculous view! This is a great spot to stop and take a look around you. You have to pay a small fee at the booth and then you ascend up the stairs and through a winding path to the Mirador or “look out” platform. There are vendors along the route that offer juice, ice cream, beer, pop cycles and souvenirs. The stairs get the heart pumping, but it’s totally accessible for the whole family.

Weaving Cooperatives – I own about a dozen scarves from Lake Atitlan. There are several weaving coops in San Juan and all of them directly benefit women artisans. These are a little pricey compared to other souvenirs, but you’re really doing a service to these women and their families. All of the garments are spun from cotton, dyed, and created using methods from the Mayan culture. They are gorgeous. Most cooperatives accept credit, but will pass along the 3% to you. They also do demonstrations to show you how they make all of the garments.

Honey – There are so many different types of bees in Lake Atitlan, and that means there are also many types of honey! There are a few different spots in San Jaun where you can learn about the bees, see the hives (most of these bees don’t sting and are totally harmless), and sample the goods. They also make soaps and lotions from the honey that are amazing.

Instagram Streets – There are so many little streets that are begging for photographs! La Calle de Las Sombrillas, Street of the Arts, Calle de Los Hexagonos – each cuter than the last! Just wander around the town, take photos, and have some great food.

Art Galleries – There are some amazing artists that call San Juan home. As you wander the streets, pop into the art galleries and check out their work. There are so many lovely points of view. We bought several pieces, and they roll them up for you to be framed at home.

Chocolate – When you get off at the Lancha dock, take a right and check out the local chocolate place. You can take a tour or just shop for chocolate. There are simple dark/milk/white chocolates or you can try something fancy. These make great gifts and souvenirs too.

Infantil Xe’ Kiaqasiwaan Park – Are you visiting during the hot months? This is a great public swimming pool and playground!

Food

Here are some great choices:

• Utz Food Bar – Nice local dishes included fried fish. Plenty of cocktails and good views too.
• Restaurant La Cabana – Right on the lake with a cute photo spot and simple pizza, pasta, and burgers.

San Pedro

Welcome to the party! San Pedro is known as the bar-hopping town on the lake. There are plenty of bars lining the lake here that offer floating docks where you can jump into the lake with a cocktail in your hand. But this town is evolving into a great food destination as well!

Tzunun Ya – This is a great little museum that is worth a visit. They ask for your birthday so that they can provide you with a write up of your Mayan horoscope animal. You watch a short video about the area and then proceed through the small exhibits about Mayan culture. Just check out their opening times because they close for lunch and aren’t open daily.

Horseback Riding – Get a different view of the lake from horseback! Contact Rancho Moises at +502 4139 1083 to arrange a ride through town and into the natural reserve. The horses were super chill and obviously knew where they were going. Just bring some bug spray if you’re wearing shorts!

Mayan Cooking Class – If you go to Lake Atitlan, you have to meet Anita and learn to make some local dishes! This was a huge highlight for me. You meet her at the dock in San Pedro at 9AM, shop the local markets for ingredients, and go back to her house to cook a feast! At the end of the experience, she gives you all of the recipes so that you can do it back at home too. Anita is such a force of life! She is a female entrepreneur in a culture that doesn’t quite embrace that yet. Her story is incredible and her food is even better. Roll up your sleeves and get chopping! To book a time with Anita, reach out to her on WhatsApp at +502 5824 7440

Los Termales – Need to warm up in a thermal bath while looking out over the lake? These aren’t natural hot springs, but they are still beautiful and relaxing. Give them a call ahead of time so that a thermal bath is ready for you +502 4242 1494. They also offer massages! This place is also BYOB, so if you want a little wine or beer make sure to pop into a grocery store on the way.

Sababa Resort – This is a lovely hotel, but you can also pop by during the day to use the pool and enjoy the vibes. On a nice day, this pool is divine. It looks like a Caribbean resort without the crowds.

Playa Publica – The public beach. Nothing fancy, but it gives you access to the lake. There are also vendors here with kayaks, paddle boards, jet skis, etc. to enjoy on the lake.

Mr. Mullet’s Boat Party – This one is not for the kids. Want a boat booze cruise? Mr. Mullet will get you out on the lake and provide the shots!

Food

• Nick’s Place – Right by that Lancha dock, this is a great place to have a bite and wait for your boat. The margaritas were really good.
• Jakuu – Guatemalan restaurant with local specialties.
• Corazon del Lago – Really simple burgers and bites, but great views. There’s also a trampoline the wear out the kids.
• Alma – Right on the lake with good cocktails. They have a floating dock too for swimming.

Pana

The largest town on the lake is Panajachel. Honestly, this was my least favorite spot because it was so busy; however, there is certainly a lot to do if you enjoy a bigger, busier vibe. My favorite spot was the Reserva Natural Atitlan. This is such a great spot for families! There’s hiking, zip lines, rope courses, playgrounds, animals and a beach. You can really spend most of a day here.

We only went to Pana for the day, so I don’t have a lot of personal recommendations besides the Reserva. There is plenty to see along the lake in town with souvenir vendors, food stops, and photo spots. This seemed like the most touristy location on the lake, so we didn’t linger too long.

Final Thoughts

I would spend a week checking out all that Lake Atitlan has to offer. Do a little research on the weather before you visit – there is definitely a rainy season. Don’t worry about booking experiences in advance as things happen very “in the moment” here. Download WhatsApp to communicate since a lot of businesses here still aren’t online.

Make sure to check out Antigua, Guatemala too! It’s a nice stop in between Lake Atitlan and the airport in Guatemala City.

There are also plenty of hikes in Lake Atitlan! Some are pretty intense though and require a guide. Make sure to look up routes ahead of time. Indian Nose is a really popular one and usually leaves at dawn.

Lake Atitlan is also famous for Spanish Immersion experiences. If your family is interested in a home stay or Spanish school, there are many opportunities on the lake.