The Unknown Ahead

Why Travel to Guatemala?

We’ve traveled many places as a family, but none have been as breathtaking as Guatemala. It’s an incredibly lush landscape with lakes, volcanoes, animals, architecture, and steeped in proud Mayan traditions. Our first stop is the charming town of Antigua. Get ready for some unique museums, gorgeous Spanish architecture, and some surprisingly good cocktail bars.

Lake Atitlan is a bit of a trek, but one well worth the effort. Each town situated along the lake has it’s own vibes and specialties, all of which are well worth exploring. One is an enclave for artists and weavers, one full of yoga namaste, and one for nature…although all are on the same lake, each is somehow completely unique too. 

Brush up on your Spanish and pack a bag, ’cause we’re on our way to Guatemala! The following itinerary can really be done in any number of ways based on the weather and your inclinations. Each town along the lake is a day of adventure, but you can certainly mix and match based on your interests. It’s quite cheap to hire a personal boat for the day, but the ferries run all day too for a nominal fee.

For an interactive Google Map with all of my recommendations, click HERE. 

Day 1

• We flew into Guatemala City and drove an hour to Antigua. We hired a private car, which I highly recommend. Driving is a little nuts in Guatemala, so it’s nice to have a local in charge. Drivers can be hired online or through most hotels. Don’t let Guatemala City worry you, it’s a hot mess, but nothing like the rest of our trip.
• We went straight to the hotel to drop off our bags. I would highly recommend The Hotel Catedral. Not only does it have a gorgeous courtyard, free breakfast and safe rooms, but it’s in a great location too.
• Depending on the time, you can do a quick hike to Cerra de la Cruz. It’s an easy half-mile walk to a viewpoint that let’s you see all of Antigua.
• Find some dinner at El Criollo. If you haven’t tried pepian, now is your chance! It’s a delicious stewy sauce made with pumpkin seeds. Try it! You won’t be sorry.
• If you’re able to get some “adult time”, then navigate to ULEW for a cocktail. It’s a secret, so you have to enter a bar and then walk through a phone booth to find it. These cocktails are a step up! Instead of ordering a specific drink, you give the waiter your “vibe” and they create a custom drink for you. Are you a fruity vodka? Or a bitter tequila? Either way, you’re in for a treat.

Day 2

• Have breakfast in the hotel’s amazing courtyard and then head out to meet your walking tour! We had an amazing guide that spoke English and engaged really well with the kids. Antigua has deep traditions and roots, so it’s great to hear about it’s history from a local. You loop all over town, have free admission to museums, and go to the Jade shop too.
• I’m a huge lover of markets, so check out this blog on the various markets in Antigua. We visited several markets full of souvenirs, clothes, art, and knick knacks. There wasn’t much food in the markets, which surprised me though. Nim Po’t Market is close to the Catalina Arch and is quite popular.
• On the main square is the Choco Museo or Chocolate Museum. You can pop in for chocolate and ice cream, or you can sign up for a chocolate making class! Beware that it’s all dark chocolate – I like it, but my children did NOT. Still a lot of fun and informative. Make sure to get a reservation ahead of time.
• There are plenty of dinner choices: Casa Escobar Antigua, como como or 27 Adentro.

A note here on safety – when I tell people that we love Guatemala, I typically get a reaction about how dangerous it is there. Personally, I never felt anything other than safe, and everyone we met was kind and proud to share their country. However, just be smart. I used a small crossbody bag with a zipper section for credit cards and a latched slot for my phone. Just be aware and plan ahead. You’ll want to use the safe in your hotel room for passports and a back-up credit card just in case. Although some people speak English, it’s not as prevalent as some other tourist areas. You may want to have a few Spanish phrases ready.

Day 3

• Get up and out early! We’ve got nearly 3 hours of winding mountain roads ahead of us! Get car sick? Grab the Dramamine and let’s get going! Hiring a private car is the best way to go. 
• We brought our nanny on this trip, so we needed an AirBnB with plenty of space. A gorgeous view of Lake Atitlan was a must, pool, outdoor fireplace, three spacious rooms, and a stocked kitchen? Check out this house! We’ve rented plenty of houses, but this one is special. Every detail is meticulate. This house is in the San Marcos la Laguna village. It’s known for yoga studios and hippy expats. We felt extremely safe here our whole stay. 
• If you’re looking for a hotel, I would suggest La Casa del Mundo. It’s beautifully situated on the water and has a great breakfast.
• Walk or take a TukTuk to downtown. There are a lot of unique stores and some grocery stores too. For dinner, check out Comedor Konojel or Restaurant Fe. There are plenty of restaurants on the main street.

A note on TukTuks – these little motorcycle taxis are everywhere on the lake. The kids loved them! You’ll want cash for the TukTuks and be sure to negotiate a price ahead of time. We got a driver’s WhatsApp number and just texted him whenever we needed to arrange a ride. 

Day 4

• Let’s go to the biggest city on the lake first: Panajachel (or Pana).
• This isn’t the cutest or quaintest of the lake towns, but it is the largest. Take the ferry from San Marcos or hire a private boat. Head to the nature preserve Reserva Natural Atitlan to hike along the coffee plants, rope bridges, and trails. There’s also a zip line, ropes course, butterfly house, and beach. You could spend a lot of time here!
• Wander into downtown Pana for some souvenirs and drinks. We went to the Little Spoon restaurant, which had a great rooftop for viewing the streets below. 
• Head back to the house to swim in the pool and enjoy the views. Take a cat nap in the hammock.
• Dinner tonight is going to be special. You’re going to Camador Casa Juanita. She is a legend in our household. The restaurant is just her home where she typically offers two dinner options. You walk in the door and are greeted by her family and escorted upstairs to a lovely balcony with a few tables. Eat a great meal of fish or chicken with local vegetables and rice. Whenever I cook fish at home my kids will mention that “it’s almost as good as Juanita’s”. My kids licked the plate clean. If that’s not an endorsement, I don’t know what is… 

Day 5

• We’re staying local today. If you’re into yoga, definitely book a session at Eagle’s Nest Atitlan. Even if you take a TukTuk up the hill, it’s still a random walk to get to Eagle’s Nest. Despite the weird logistics, it was one of the best views of the whole lake. There’s also a little cafe to get some coffee or breakfast first too.
• It’s time to get in the lake! You can walk or take a TukTuk to Cerro Tzankujil Nature Reserve. This day is one of my best family memories. There’s a 40-foot platform here where you can jump into Lake Atitlan. I’ll never forget hearing my 10-year old son yell “you’re a chicken!!!!!!” to my husband as he jumped off the platform first. Walk the trails here, hang out in the lovely waters of Atitlan and make some family memories. There’s also smaller jumping areas, plenty of hiking, and areas to lounge by the water. Bring your own towel to lay down and dry off.
• Full disclosure, we went to Camador Casa Juanita again for dinner. It was just so good! But there are other places to wander as well: Anzan (more upscale at another AirBnB), Tul Y Sol is right on the water or Moonfish Cafe.

Day 6

• Time to visit my favorite town on the lake – San Juan La Laguna. It’s famous for the floating umbrellas, art galleries, honey, and the weaving cooperative. There is a very artsy vibe in this town. 
• The honey spot is really cool. They walk you around the hives amongst busy bees and let you taste all the types of honey. Get some to bring home!
• The weaving cooperative is great! They teach you how to weave in the old traditions of Guatemalan women. It’s fascinating to learn about the color dyes and various patterns they use. If you’re looking for a scarf, look no further. I wear mine all the time!
• Wander here and look at all of the art too. We purchased several pieces to bring home.

Day 7

• The drive back to Guatemala City is legit. Definitely hire a driver for this trek through the winding mountains and city. It can be really trafficky and chaotic on the roads, so give yourself a full two hours more than you think you need to get to the airport. 

Alternate Options…

Here are some ideas and activities that you can add to the itinerary as you see fit. Lake Atitlan is very laid-back, so if you want to jam in some more activities, it’s totally up to you! Here are some other things that were really fun on the lake:

• Tzunun’Ya’ Museum – starts off with a video of early Mayan times on the lake. It’s a pretty small place, so budget about an hour for the whole thing. It’s in San Pedro and a bit of a walk from the ferry dock.
• Aguas Termales Natural swimming area is a lovely place to hang out for an afternoon.
• Horseback ride through the jungle at Rancho Moises in San Pedro. To be honest, I don’t love horses, but it was a nice ride. You start on horseback riding through the city to a more jungle-y area. Make sure to put on long pants and mosquito repellent for this trek. It’s a really beautiful ride.
• Lake Atitlan is also famous for its Spanish immersion schools. I haven’t done this personally, but there are several schools that the whole family can join and stay with local hosts. If you’re really looking for adventure and an opportunity to learn Spanish, you may want to consider researching this option.

Find a detailed list of locations and notes HERE.